First of all, I want to say that the amigurumi skill level ‘labels’ (beginner, intermediate and advanced) used in any crochet pattern are not important in determining who you are. That shouldn’t stop you from improving your skills by doing what you love!
Many people seem to have a bit of a confusion in figuring out what skills are required to work a doll. Others want to understand them, what is their level in amigurumi. So I thought I’d explain it with this tutorial so that I can refer to it again whenever people send me an email asking for help in the future.
In some of my models you will find indicated the level of skill you need to have to make the item you bought. Some designers don’t specify this when I sell their designs, but I think it’s important.
But how do I do then?
I understand that it is not easy to understand the skill level of yourself, especially in the beginning. On the other hand, it is also difficult for us amigurumi designers to identify someone’s level. But I thought I’d make a list and break it down into three big levels – beginner, intermediate, and advanced to help you with that. But I would like to specify that you shouldn’t just make amigurumi pieces based on your current level. Otherwise you would never improve your skills!
Let’s say you want to buy an amigurumi pattern and want to figure out what your current skill level is. Then look at the list below:
The basic skills are the magic ring, a single crochet, increasing, decreasing, finishing off in the round, and how to read an Amigurumi pattern. These are the fundamentals because they allow the creation of a spherical shape, which is the building block of amigurumi toys.
The intermediate skills are the basic skills and slip stitch (sl st or SS) , double crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, turn, invisible increase, invisible decrease, BLO and FLO, change the color, work the foundation chain, fasten off (F.O.), and how to connect doll legs.
The intermediate skills are the basic skills plus the intermediate skills, in addition it is necessary to have other skills such as:
- Joined round: means you CH at the start of each round, and join the end of each round with a slip stitch (SS) into the first stitch of the round.
- Crochet in spiral: you not turn you work at the end
- Crochet in row: by crocheting in row you make the Coraline rain jacket you go to and turn you work at the end of row.
- Back post single crochet (Bpsc): this technique (after having worked the sole for the shoe) we will have a clear line and a change of direction to give it a more realistic shape to the shoe of our doll. moreover it allows us to have a color change without thread cutter and more beautiful!
- Shift Stitch = 1 SC in the end of round: is an extra stitch you work at the end of a round to make the lines of the doll’s stocking symmetrical.
- Crochet at the same time on both sides: by crocheting the open sides of the legs together in a straight line, the doll’s legs are free to move and dangle.
- Work in back loops of foundation chain: working in in back loops of foundation chain allows us to have a shoe sole with less visible holes.
- Work into the back bump of the chains: this creates a nice starting edge with two loops and allows you not to have the collar of the jacket tight. But if it fails you can work as a normal chain.
- Work a elastic band or also called Rubber band: adding crochet stitches around a elastic band allows you to do Coraline’s hair.
- Popcorn stitch: pop corn stitch used to make a thumb on dolls hands. You can get help from the pictures in the arms section.
NOTE: there are countless other stitches, techniques or use of certain terminology that I claim to add a little at a time.
That’s all there is to it! Hope this clears up any remaining confusion about amigurumi skills.
This post is great refernce for you who bought my Coraline doll 2 new look!
You can purchase my pieces and recipes via the Etsy shop by clicking on here.
- Then, follow the first post in the series The Amigurumi manual and crochet that has news coming!